Tuesday, 10 July 2012

The Cliffhanger lament...

Photo - Alex Messenger - BMC

After so much work by so many people it was gut - wrenching that the Cliffhanger Festival in Graves park this year was cancelled. The Friday morning start dawned with biblical rain and it was a very hard call to get things going up - or start taking them down. Unfortunately, the latter became the order of the day.

Yet the British spirit endured and we were determined that some of the show should go on! Thus ensued frantic rearranged logistics to make sure that the British Bouldering Championships went ahead despite the ghastly weather and the BMC were dogged in their travail and despite being wet to the bone - the team got the comp on...

With an impromptu gig  at the Showroom  on Friday night following the cancellation of all the bands due to play - we managed to claw some comfort back & the bands that played showed true northern grit.

We may have been very down - but we were never out - testament to the character of many who in the face of adversity never gave up & decided to stick two fingers up at the weather and crack on... well done chaps...  

Thursday, 5 July 2012

Cliffhanger 2012 is here!


Cliffhanger is here! 6th, 7th and & 8th July 2012 - Sheffield Graves Park

Cliffhanger is the UK’s largest outdoor-pursuits festivals, based in one of Sheffield’s biggest green spaces. We're pretty sure that it's actually the UK's biggest outdoor festival for outdoor folk, with over 20,000 visitors in 2 days.
The aim of the event is to Inspire & Involve. Featuring elite competitions and / or professional demonstrations in rock climbing, orienteering, kayaking, mountain biking, running, mountain boarding, skateboarding, slacklining, adventure racing and more, visitors are able to watch incredibly talented sports-people of all ages at the top of their game, and then take part in the very sports they have just been inspired by.
Just a few days until Cliffhanger kicks off and the big top marquee's up and this year promises to be bigger and better than ever.    
  • NEW 50k Cycle Sportive + MTB slalom & X country
  • NEW 5k trail run
  • NEW live music stages on Fri & Sat evenings
  • NEW onsite camping village
  • NEW online advance booking
Cliffhanger - where else can you camp, climb, bock, bop, run and ride all in one weekend?

Organised by Sheffield City Council with Heason Events, we’ve teamed up with Rat Race Adventure Sports to put on a ‘Festival within a Festival’ at Rat Race Basecamp for that quintessential summer festival vibe with onsite camping and a live music arena on Friday and Saturday nights.

The move to a new venue - Sheffield's Graves Park, the city's largest green space - means even more of all the elite competitions and family-friendly have-a-go demos we're renowned for.

Once you've paid your £7 entry (£6.50 online in advance & free for accompanied under 16s) there's loads to do for free during the day including:

  • British Bouldering Championships in the big top marquee + 7 mobile climbing walls with free coaching.
  • Trials bike stunt displays, Welsh Bocking, Slack-lining, Bike Polo, Roller Derby, Cycle Speedway, Scuba Diving, Story Tent, Caving, Disc Golf, Skateboarding, Parkour and a Rope Course.
  • Plus NEW Mountain Bike Downhill Slalom and Cross Country Eliminator Races and three Orienteering Courses.

RatRace Basecamp are hosting an onsite camping village as well holding a 5k Rat Run trail race on Saturday and 50k Rat Ride Cycle Sportive out into the Peak District on Sunday.

And we can't wait for the chance to chill out with a drink at the beer tent, listening to the great line-up of live music on Friday and Saturday nights.  If you want to get in the mood, why not listen to the Spotify playlist of the bands on the line-up.

Want to get a taster of what's in store?  Check out this excellent video of last year's event by film-maker Dan Habershon--Butcher.

Festival co-organiser Matt Heason from Heason Events says:  “We’ve had a brilliant run of festivals at Millhouses Park but Cliffhanger’s become such a fixture on the climbing calendar and so popular with lovers of all outdoors and adventure sports that we’re aiming even higher this year with a bigger venue and even more have-a-go activities, demos and elite competitions.”

Jim Mee, Managing Director of Rat Race Adventure Sports says:  “When you’ve exhausted yourselves at Cliffhanger, come along to RatRace Basecamp and listen to some absolutely stonking live music and enjoy our beer tent and the rest. That’s not forgetting the Rat Race Store of course, crammed full of shiny stuff from bags to bikes; racks to ropes. Then pitch your tent in the BASECAMP village and enjoy a night or two under the stars.”

Find it all out here!

http://www.cliff-hanger.co.uk/

…hope to see you there!

Si

Monday, 4 June 2012

CUD - U - LIKE


February 2012: The morning alpine glow of the sun kissed valley of Grindlewald greeted me as I threw open the curtains of our hotel balcony. The thin yolky sunlight was gloriously shuffling its way up the snowline flanks of the mighty, brooding Eiger North face.

I was pleased, that being in Switzerland, the satellite TV could at least pick up a slim slice of blighty in the shape of BBC6 music (thank god we fought hard enough for it) and along with the mix of garage & indie blaring we started to pack for our day in the Mountains.

I don’t know why, in that brushing ones teeth can be so personable and we deem it alright to strut about with our gobs foaming, raking toothbrush too & fro in mouth, whilst almost utterly being unheard as we slobber out the days plans or indeed more important, what the guy just said on the radio…

“Gugghh!!” I shouted to my dearest who was tending to the face slap. She didn’t flinch. The man on the radio continued to make my dreams come true, announcing that the best band in the world ever, CUD had yet again reformed & were starting a tour in Sheffield on June 2nd 2012. Then heaven. Next song up on the play list was the glorious CUD band anthem “Only a Prawn in Whitby”.

By this time I had taken the toothbrush from said mouth and was wailing like the Carl “sex god” Putnam banshee, finger pointing as is the law with me and dancing about like only a Space Cud – ette can do. My darling girlfriend thought I had gone quite mad at this point, and to all intensities & purposes, she would be absolutely right.

Fast forward 2nd June 2012 and in my haste to do everything else but get a ticket for the concert, I found myself launched into a dilemma after scouring the internet for a billet for the band I loved. Do I go down to Club Leadmill like a dirty skanky addict and try to “score”?

I cursed myself as I had made a mental note to get tickets for the 3 “Cs” – Cricket, Cud and… um … well it will come to me I’m sure at some point. So I resigned myself to failure, the night was foul weather and I tried to convince myself that 20 years way past their prime, they would be shite anyway.

Yet like the proverbial itch you cannot scratch or the moth at the light bulb, the nagging optimism would not go away, angel & devil arguing on the shoulders… the devil, as usual, won…

Arse. Just two bouncers, no ticket touts and a bloke getting stoned outside the club. “No returns?” I asked. Muscle man shook his head & told me to bugger off. The guy getting slowly baked shouted to me he has just given a ticket to some bloke that is in a pub somewhere. Thanks for that, very helpful. Which, infact as it turns out, it actually was.

As the pot head was so wrecked and with him shouting down the street, it seems he had alerted a rather fretful chap, whom appeared out of the door looking furtive and asked me how many tickets I wanted.  As he had lost all his mates before in the pre-gig booze up he seemed a tad desperate to offload them. “One” I said. “Just one?” he pleaded with sad eyes.

Now my answer would normally be “two” as my best buddy Dange has always been with me at our CUD gigs and indeed on some other CUD- esque journeys, more about later, and if Dange had been able to come with me to blag a brace of tickets, our grins would have been as wide as Park Hill Flats.

Still, I was very grateful for this lucky charm and I was only asked for the normal fee of £12.50. So I bought him a pint and later we danced to strains of 20 years ago. Thanks to the kindness of strangers.

Usually at gigs, I don’t head straight to the stage, or the bar, but the merchandise stand and at CUD gigs; it is religious to get a CUD T, for they are many and legendary. A fat bloke heavily dressed as a Pirate was not doing a very good job of selling his wares to the hoards of bank note waving fans. He seemed distracted and far from competent in his knowledge of merchandise. He sold me the wrong sized t- shirt, a play on scrabble (pictured) but sometimes that’s not unusual at gigs.

Then it dawned on me – it was lead singer Carl “sex god” Puttnam himself faffing about & getting it all wrong, typical Carl!

Missing the warm up band, time for a pint and a chat to the fans in the bar to see the demographic of the ages, the hairlines & the beer bellies. We were all reminiscing about the times gone past, the albums, the gigs and the t-shirts, when two of my friends who had actually got their arses into gear and booked tickets ages ago appeared. Joy! I can share the event with my mates, something always very special to me, never a loner for momentous occasions such as this!

The stage was tiny, the sound system crap, the crowd were drunk & smelly, the light rigging looked like something from a dodgy carnie waltzer, yet when the band came on, what a welcome.

CUD didn’t disappoint, and all the old classics were belted out to some old school crowd surfing & people invading the stage. Shedding 20 years off themselves, the fans were suddenly living the great indie era again and so was I. This was no polished, theatrical, pyrotechnical stadium rock concert. This was a sweaty, heaving mass of fans throwing beer at the band with a “Sheffield Welcome” (You fat bastard) arseing about like we used to, tonnes of feedback, poor sound, duff notes with the obligatory sticky floor. Like it used to be. No need to be nostalgic anymore, CUD had created the greatest invention of mankind, a time machine!

When rock climbers do a new climb (route) that no one else has done before, they get the privilege to give them a name that gets written into international guidebooks. It’s a great honour and usually people spend quite a while thinking about a name that will go down for all time in history in the national library.

Not me. Nearly all the new routes my bessie mate and Cudette Dange and I did on the Eastern Gritstone edges of the peak district got a CUD reference. Our favourite being “Slack Time”, not the best of songs, but there is a great line “there is a time to be tight and a time to be slack and that’s the time to die”. Was fatty boom boom Carl a climber? We nearly went back stage to ask him, I think he would be proud.

After two raucous encores, the crowd eventually spilled out of the dimly lit Leadmill doorway, I swear everyone had a mile wide grin on their faces and fire in their eyes.

As we made our way to the taxi, I danced a little jig, thought of the sunny morning in Switzerland and could not resist a high pitched wail of “Only a Prawn in Whitby”.

One day my Girlfriend will visit Whitby, stop thinking I am mental, and one hopes at some point will witness the best band in the world…



Thursday, 22 March 2012

The Molster & Her Free Kicks...

This is our Mollie dog, who we are looking after at the moment as she has been playing far too hard & ruptured her cruicient knee ligament.

As with any good footballer with this injury, after major surgery we are keeping a good eye on her with numerous trips to the (V.E.T) post surgery. She may not take a penalty again in the United / Wednesday derby we fear…

Miss Mollie Collie is feeling pretty bored, depressed & frustrated in the fact she can’t be up & about sniffing other dogs bums in’t park as she is pretty much queen of the profession and commands her manor accordingly…

However she is a tough old girl and has a nice new bright blue & white lead to match her collar, so she must be feeling better already…

Get well soon our Mollie Collie… we love you…

Si

Monday, 5 March 2012

Sheffield Adventure Film Festival - 9th - 11th March 2012 - Music!



ABC are playing the Rotherham’s Women’s institute, Richard Hawley’s putting up shelves, Joe Cocker’s off surfing and the Arctic Monkeys are washing their hair...

However if you want to catch some of Sheffield’s other great artists, they will all be down at the Showroom from Friday 9th – 11th March at The Sheffield Adventure Film Festival.



Full line up is here:

http://www.shaff.co.uk/other-stuff/live-music/

and this year we have a Song writing workshop for the first time!

http://www.shaff.co.uk/other-stuff/live-music/shaff-songwriting-workshop/

What is it?

The songwriting workshop is an event to bring together people with an interest in songwriting in an informal way and in a supportive environment with a focus on helping you find other ways of gaining inspiration for lyric writing.

Who is running it?

Fiona Hughes. Fiona writes in the tradition of guitar based singer songwriters. Her songs are simple and from the heart. Her forthcoming album 'Everything I Am' includes collaborations with Iain Archer (Snow Patrol/Tired Pony) and Paul Statham (Dido) amongst others. Fiona also writes for other artists under the banner 'The Avantia Project' and is currently completing an eighty song multi genre, multi media project for release 2012. She has studied Music Production, including scoring for film, at ATM studios in Bristol and has an MA in Songwriting from BathSpa University. Fiona will be running a songwriting workshop 10th/11th March in association with SHAFF. Spaces are limited so book now. For more detail click here. Samples of Fiona's music can be found at

www.myspace.com/fionahughes

Who is it for?

Anyone who is interested in song writing and particularly in developing their lyric writing

I've never written a song before, does that matter?

Not at all.

How much does it cost?

The workshop is free, you will need to pay to see the films. See ticket prices.

What do I need to bring?

Pen and paper for writing down all those inspired thoughts.

Do I need to bring an instrument?

You can if you like. The focus is on lyric development so it's not absolutely necessary. You don't need to be able to play an instrument to attend.

Where is it?

We will meet at the Rutland Arms pub, www.rutlandarmspeople.co.uk which is just down the road from SHAFF at 13.00 on Saturday 10th and then again at the same time, same place on the Sunday.

Format*

Saturday

13.00 -14.00 Introductory discussion on the basics of songwriting and the ways of gaining inspiration. Issuing of 'Inspiration Toolkit'
14.00 Make our way to SHAFF and watch some of the amazing films available to put our 'Inspiration Toolkit' to work.
17.00 Regroup and compare notes.
17.30 Finish and either go home to work on our songs or stay around to gain more inspiration/work on songs/watch more films/support the live acts.

Sunday

13.00 - 14.00 Playback and feedback.
14.30 - 15.30 Songwriters will be paired up to collaborate.
15.30 - Return to SHAFF for more film and live music.

How Can I Sign Up?

Drop us an email.

*Format and timings may vary depending on the needs of the group.



Please come along and show your support, bring an instrument, play and jam, sing if you want to, you never know we may find another Jarvis…

…or Tony Christie…

Cheers

Si




Watch the trailer at:

www.shaff.co.uk


Friday, 3 February 2012

Captain Jack Sparrow Meets Human Resources...

After a corporate night out with a meal and a few drinks with work, who do I meet on the way to the Taxi's busking on West Street? None other than my mucker Captain Jack Sparrow Busking in full regale with crappy guitar, well, well out of tune as usual.

One fettle & tuning sesh later and I got the thing in tune for us to perform "Bad Moon Rising" with me in my work suit on the gob iron (Harmonica) and Jack growling his way through the tune as usual... he very politely offered to pay me a quid for the performance - which I thought was far too much, so I offered to pay him for subjecting him to the shrilling squeals of the gob iron.

Although he did insist I take a swing of his rum for payment and I had the honour of being first mate for a few songs and somehow passing students and the good people of Sheffield tagged us as legends. . .
Nah I said, I'm just a wanderer that meets with Jack now and again to play some tunes, albeit out of tune most of the time. Captain Jacks the Legend playing into the late freezing hours & being gracious and friendly to his public & admirers.

After our song he was swamped by scantily clad pretty young things and after a blues jam in the bitter cold night and more swarming giddy girls we parted a pirate plundering the shores of Sheffield.

Every time we jam Jack always bemoans his guitar is f*****g shite and yes it really is, its a beaten up piece of crap that never stays in tune, yet it gets battered back into working order to a certain extent.

I wish I could give Jack a decent plank, however I don't really think he would take it , the instrument and the man gives the performance which carry each other.

As for tonight, a Pirate and a pin striped Human Resources man bonding on a typical Friday night in Sheffield?.. Why hell not? here's to you captain!

Wednesday, 21 December 2011

Every Picture tells a story number 6: Happy Christmas!



6am, and I languidly rise from my lightly, dream dusted slumber...

Kicking the bedpost, an act of habit never learned from, despite the pain of yet another stubbed toe, I raggedly dress in the dark so as not to wake the rest of the household.

I have never been able to sleep in on Christmas morning, as a young lad so exited to see what Santa has brought or a flaky student staying up at some digs until being kicked out in the early hours.


These days it’s more of a hope that the snow has come and with it a fantastic sunrise may occur…

Christmas 2010 and the westerly winds had blown in fat, white flakes of snow covering the peak district eastern edges, blanketing the crest of harsh grey/black gritstone edges and the knarred trees that grow out from the frozen earth.

The smell of winter filled my senses in the dull light as I made my way, with skin shuddering in the razored wind to the aptly named Windy Corner at Stoke near Grindleford.

Altogether it made a perfect setting for the white cold moon hovering in the dark sky, which made way for the yolky sunlight to appear and illuminate the land over Curbar Edge.


The magnificent grit edges of Froggatt and Baslow peeked out from the top of the cold mist, which rose from the streams and rivers like some large primordial phantom of romance. The church bells in Calver began to peel and the twinkling lights of the local villages appeared in the valley as people were waking up to their Christmas presence.

A fellow early riser appeared from Jacobs ladder from Stoney Middleton, on a lone walk towards Eyam and we nodded and gave our Christmas morning greeting.

The sun was being lazy, disinterested and troublesome, however I managed a capture of the buttercup-hued skyline with the breathtakingly Christmassy scene scape.

The biting wind on my face and licking cracked lips, with the picture in the can, meant I decided to start back down the icy road to Mum’s house then Dad’s for the rest of the Christmas day, safe in knowledge that I had spent time being that early rising as a giddy, excited kid again…


…Happy Christmas all! Si x

Monday, 12 December 2011

Every Picture Tells a Story - 5 – Locomotion...

Advent(urous) Train spotting…

December 1st and I was presented with a gift from a work colleague. She had rather gracefully bought advent calendars for the whole office; you know the ones with the god awful, sickly cheap chocolate in them.

Not that I’m an ingrate or anything, I just dislike chocolate of any kind and I’m not Eight years old anymore. The cover of said calendar being Thomas the Tank Engine.

Adopting the office “Advent Calendar policy” this now sits on my desk, with the annoyingly cheery tanker, smugly gawking at me with his fat silvery, boat race.

Peering at this visage, my mind wandered to question if he used to have eyebrows…as I spoke to Sue in the Gamma Knife Stereotactic Radiotherapy Department about government NHS financial budgets. She may have known, but I neglected to enquire.

It does, however remind me of a time when I was a train spotter (shush)... and I was taken all round the country by my dad just to write numbers in a book. Nay, not just a casual note in a jotter, it required this young lads courage to ask the driver to “cab” a loco.

Standing in the cab of a train we often asked “what that stick did” or “have you ever drove a steam engine” or so such intelligent curios.

The infamous number 50007 (pictured) was named Sir Edward Elgar – him of Land of Hope and Glory Fame, and if you sought out that particular locomotive, you had struck gold (or green as was the engines livery).

However one great memories of the time was the late, great Willie Rushton, him of fame for That was the week that was, reading the Thomas the Tank Engine stories. I remember Johnny Morris from Animal magic doing the same job. Legends both.

They spoke in such a way that as a young child, you would listen transfixed, chewing on every word and savouring the taste long after the record finished. The scratchy quality of the 33-rpm discs just added to the experience and the real life exploration of the railways became a joyous blurred journey of fiction, reality and fantasy.

It’s questionable that any of us grow up, especially boys/men. Steam trains still hold a special place in my heart, so it’s maybe a trifle harsh that I overly grumble about a small blue tank engine evading my space for 25 days…

…In fact, I think after all the chocolate has been scoffed by the office girls, moreover… I shall indeed miss Thomas the Tanker…

Sunday, 11 December 2011

Every Picture Tells a Story - 4 – Carhead Rocks…


Carhead Rocks…

Where? you may ask. Not far from the most famous gritstone crag in the world… not far at all really - a spitting distance o-ert the road and you are at the crag that the Peak forgot (or tried to)

These are only really included as some of the only pictures that I have every taken with a broken scaifoid (left wrist thankfully).

We had sought out the rocks using the Allen Williams 1994 Green Peak Bouldering Guide (Ominous it being green) and after years of wondering what the rocks were like. I managed just the one problem before taking a rather po-faced tumble on the green shitty mank of the tundra heather and slime fested rocks.

“Pop” went the bone in my wrist.

“Ouch” I said before spouting a monologue of unrefined rough-cut expletives, for some time I have to admit… (Although I managed to take some canny pictures and carry the beers from the bar – what a hero!)

Still I had the fracture clinic to look forward to and following that the plaster room. I got a rookie and so with a heavy heart, I ditched the blue and white striped number of that there Sheffield Wednesday in favour of a plain green cast. She couldn’t nouse that up surely?

3 attempts later and I had a wonky misshaped green-esque cast in honour of Allen’s guide and the slime that had caused my affliction.

Carhead was born never to be loved, skulking, lurking and squatting in the shadow of the queen of Grit and like a jealous sibling, decided to exact revenge for years of abstinence.





Stanage has always looked after me; we took a w
hile to get to know each other admittedly, but then they all know Froggatt is my lady of choice, in more ways than one.

Does Carhead deserve a second chance? I walked within safe distance the other week, nervously eyeing the squat gritty edgy lumps. They looked as though they wished a casual roaming stroller approach without prejudice…

…I might have been suckered in lest I had seen this dubious looking profile, a mocking rock 'face' cut out laughing at my plight…one climb? “that’s all punter?”

My retort?

…aye but that problem were pretty bloody shit any how…

Sunday, 4 December 2011

Every Picture Tells A Story 3 – Theo and I go To Cleethorpes…

Sometimes there is no need for an in-depth description or detailed hyperbole when it comes to capturing a moment in time.

Why spend time waxing lyrical, extracting every nuance and extrapolating the very thing you are trying to showcase via words when the bloody picture tells you what it is?

Why debate the minutiae of a photograph, when it clearly states “dog on a beach”

Theo and I went to Cleethorpes one day & we had a nice time, we recommend it. Theo looks happy and the sands are lush. His ears went a bit funny in this picture, but then he was on holiday...

Every Picture Tells a Story 2 - The Elusive Waterfall…

Many years ago as a young boy, I’d heard of a hidden waterfall, which was one of the highest in the Peak District. My Father knew of its whereabouts, yet cryptically stated, “it’s round abouts”.

A typical Derbyshire way of saying “I’m not telling you".Which to an adventurous young lad was torture and I vowed I would go to the ends of the earth (well within cycling distance at least) to discover their whereabouts.

After many years of mooching around the hills and dales, I was resigned never to find the fabled, secreted falls and pretty much gave up the ghost.

Sure we found plenty of other hidden waterfalls such as Brookside falls at Froggatt, Paddley Gorge falls, and the charming off shoots from Mag Clough.

Then many years later, the day came when a few like-minded photographers met in a kitchen thumbing through a black and white local photobook. Suddenly - there they were! I can’t tell you their name of course, as they are secret, but sure enough in glorious monochrome, the elusive falls had been discovered.

The location was baffling, as I had passed the area many times, yet one would never think to find a waterfall in the trees that hid their secret so well.


The light was a challenge and we all agreed that the day had been a success in parts, yet we could not shoot the waterfall in its entirety due to the contrasting nature of extreme light/shadow (see left). Still, a few frames were usable and I decided I would get my own back on my father.

As he tore the Christmas wrapping paper from the black and white frame to reveal the picture you see before you (above), fathers’ eyes bulged and with a wry smile I simply said, “told you I’d find them”…

Saturday, 3 December 2011

Every picture tells a story…


Number 1 – Livvy White – Owler Tor




Every picture tells a story……so went the album title of Rod Stewart's 1973 album of the same name album title. Which had a load of great songs on it rather than pictures, but as one of these included Maggie May (the song not the picture – if there is one), I’ll let Rodders off…

A beautiful spot for walking, climbing and bouldering, Owler Tor, holds a special place in our hearts for some great times. The shot was taken on a raw January day, a year following a special bouldering trip on Christmas day when two bachelors were missing a family and decided to climb on the hill above Hathersage while the church bells peeled…

Her father, Phil and I bouldered out some of the best problems in the Peak before a shock phone call to say that some friends had been robbed all their presents on Xmas Eve. 

Pure joy turned to sadness and a pensive way forward… Olivia has a per ma smile on her boat race these days – how poignant and beautiful she could be when younger on the hills…the sadness and joy of the day encompassed in her eyes alone… Her hat was an inspiration and I have one despite the jolly japes - after all - they keep your head warm!

Enjoying the crisp, still and even grit, dad Phil's his boots on a lovely Owler arête.


Management of The Roaches Estate decided...


The all-important decision over the future of the Roaches has been made, with the announcement that Staffordshire Wildlife Trust will take on a 125 year lease of the estate.

The Roaches, an iconic climbing crag and beauty spot near Leek in Staffordshire, is one of the estates being "disposed of" as part of a wider asset review by the Peak District National Park Authority (PDNPA) due to budgetary pressures.

The Roaches Estate comprises a long thin strip of land with a variety of habitats from open moorland to plantation forest, incorporating a number of important crags such as Hen Cloud, The Roaches, The Five Clouds, The Roaches Skyline and Back Forest.

The Park Authority considered proposals from Staffordshire Wildlife Trust, The National Trust and The Land Trust before deciding to entrust Staffordshire Wildlife Trust with the estate's future management.

The BMC’s preferred option was The National Trust due to its experience in land management, dealing with moorland fires and management of visitors to popular areas such as the Roaches. However, the BMC is committed to working with the Staffordshire Wildlife Trust to ensure climbers and walkers interests are maintained and that the Roaches remains well managed for both wildlife and people.

The BMC leases Rockhall Cottage from the PDNPA and so has a direct interest in the future management of the estate separate to the climbing and walking.

It follows the National Trust and RSPB coming together to form the Eastern Moors Partnership to manage the Eastern Moors estate (including crags such as Froggatt and Curbar) last year, and precedes the next major estate of interest to walkers and climbers – North Lees, which includes Stanage.

This ‘asset disposal’ is a result of the PDNPA, along with many other National Parks and public bodies, having to make budget cuts. Historically the PDNPA has owned considerably more land than other National Park Authorities and as part of its cost saving review, a number of areas of its land were identified to be disposed of, through sale or lease to other organisations or individuals.

Following a yearlong process of consultation and putting the estate up for tender, the PDNPA’s Audit, Resources & Planning Committee met on the 25th November 2011 to decide which bid should be chosen to manage the site. Out of the three bids from the Land Trust, National Trust and Staffordshire Wildlife Trust (SWT), the SWT bid was chosen to take on management of the estate through a 125 year lease.

Local BMC access reps and keen local climbers Andi Turner, Henry Folkard, Adam Long and Neil Foster along with BMC Access & Conservation Officer Rob Dyer attended the public part of the meeting, with Andi and Henry each giving three minute speeches on the importance of the estate for climbers and walkers.
Please take time to follow this link for some of their thoughts on the decision and the process in this short video clip.




Reporting from the Peak District National Park Authority is here:


Thoughts as always welcome…

Simon Jacques 

BMC Access Representative


Sunday, 27 November 2011

A Major Grouse at the Grouse...

Usually a pint in the Grouse Inn follows a stomp with Theo dog, and today was no exception - however we were greeted by the sad news that our four legged friend is no longer allowed, nay accepted in the bar. 

An outcast in his own local we left in disgust, as a long time local and supporter of the Grouse I find this most destroying - the foodies have complained about dogs in the pub.

Well I'm sorry but he was a paying customer that you have inadvertently discriminated against and lost a few few fellow customers in the process... a pub of traditional dog lovers - I hope little Bo dog in the annex doesn't get too upset by this decision as we are...




Saturday, 26 November 2011

Four Legs good, Four Wheels bad...


I once got into very hot water, scalding in fact, on the issue of 4x4 use in the Peak District, when my name appeared in the national press, via a newspaper supporting a letter of harrumph towards a local authority.

The ramifications have never quite blown over, yet since, I have kept my red faced head down, when it come to all matters motorised vehicles on green lanes and byways, despite my seething utter disgust and loathing of the 4X4's belching over our National Parks.

Time and tide and all that, and this year I was invited by a fellow outdoor enthusiast and leading member of the Friends of the Peak District to attend a March against 4x4 use, up to Stanage Pole on the behalf of the British Mountaineering Council as an Access representative.

I seem to remember going quite pale at the request and I fobbed like one has never fobbed before, blustering and flustering a response of polite thanks, but no thanks. Attempts to encourage, included the fact that it would be filmed for both a BBC documentary and the Regional TV station Look North (or Look Leeds as we call it in Sheffield).

This only provided my alabaster, ashen face to turn a shade of pale that Procal Harum could never have envisaged, before my head fell off. Now the geezer that approached me is a good egg, a stout fellow and a kindred spirit when it comes to matters in the Peak District, yet I had to again say for reasons of politics, blahdy blah and my mangled, grossly deformed half chewed ear…no...
The world turned a few times and I was lobbied further, this time as an official photographer for the day, no badges or logo’s, organisations or politics, just a freelance snapper doing a gig for the love of it all.

The strings of my heart had been finely tuned and played like a good Fender Stratocaster, I had swallowed the sinker along with the hook and the line. However I needed tread carefully up the hill from Redmires Reservoirs up to Stanage as I shot frame after frame of rally supporters against the 4x4’s. A hand full of the latter of which decided to follow us up to the pole. If I could have worn a Groucho Marks disguise type mask, I surely would.

The Rally went well and pretty much without incident and I made it down from Stanage with the Peak district area Ranger discussing the problems that he faces with the 4x4’s using the long causeway at Stanage.

The local press did their thing and the BBC documentary was shown in October. A toothless affair caught up in red tape and committees with little or no substance I thought and the issue was parked as far as I was concerned.

Now I often get urges, like we all do and last weekend I had an urge to walk the Houndkirk byway through sheer curiosity. Not really for any reason but for to walk Theo dog and to see how the walkers, mountain bikers and the motorised folk are playing up there.

To be proactive is better than being reactive and I thought it prudent to get a view of the current state of play on Houndkirk before I entered into any hyperbole with interested parties moving forward for access issues.

Mountain bikes whizzed past as Theo and I tramped over the moor, past the area where the decoy city lights were deployed during the 2nd World War. The dog walkers were out in force and a few motorbikes chugged by as we journeyed towards Ringinglow with the sun dipping down over the crest of Burbage Valley.

Crap from motorised vehicles was strewn about the road, the gritstone walls decimated from stone taken for the road to help stuck vehicles and the fence flattened for the enjoyment of some utterly vile petrol (shit) heads.

I finished the walk into Sheffield down the pleasant Limb Valley, thankfully free from man made detritus pondering on the state of things.

I tend to pick my battles that I want to win, but sometimes, they choose me instead and I then have to assess how the land literally lies. The conclusion is neither earth shattering, or of major consequence on core values and opinion. I detest 4X4’s and I still think they have no place in a National Park. I think I will hold this opinion no matter what, however much I am allowed to voice it.

I will stop short of some of the expletives that some of my colleagues choose to label the 4x4 fraternity, however one memorable exchange between a climber and a petrol head went something like this:

“Isn’t what your doing illegal?”

“No”

“Well it f*****g well ought to be…”

 Quite...


Eastern Moors crag plan underway

The new BMC crag management plan for the Eastern Moors Estate is underway, with woodland management starting next month.

On 22nd September, BMC Peak Area Access Representatives Adam Long and Simon Jacques met with Danny Udall, Site Manager, Kim Strawbridge, Warden and Andrew Carson, Warden, for a site visit on the Curbar/Froggatt escarpment.

The meeting was to commence the implementation of the BMC’s Crag Management Plan for the area and detailed woodland surveillance in line with the Eastern Moors Partnership’s woodland management document.

The crag management plan was prepared by the BMC Eastern Moors sub Group. The plan had been submitted to the Eastern Moors Partnership and the Stakeholder forum and following its agreement, is now being successfully rolled out on the eastern moors and the gritstone edges.

Starting the day at Warren Lodge at Curbar the team went through the plans of the woodland management from Curbar to Froggatt and the details of the woodland grant that has been approved to carry out the work of preserving and managing the woodland beneath and above the crags.

The team visited the Trackside boulder at Curbar and agreed that although the carpet of wood chippings beneath the boulder were initially a good idea, a longer-term erosion plan needed to be implemented. This will involve the chippings being scraped out and gritstone hardcore being placed down as per the plantation at Stanage, with volunteers being asked to help.

During the site visit, the team walked over the edges and discussed areas on the crags where there would be a case for the thinning of the higher line of trees and the sympathetic management of silver birch removal, with a promotion of Oakland woodland regen.

The crags are to be opened up for better views from both the Derwent valley and from the edges themselves. Areas such as Rumble Wall at Curbar and Froggatt in the woods will be thinned at buttress sites and on the top of the edge.

The team also noted a marked change, following the removal of sheep grazing on the edges, of bell heather regeneration around the crags along with small oak and rowan saplings with gorse making a welcome come back and many signs of deer tracks throughout the walk.

Following an invite, Danny and his team are happy to attend the BMC Peak Area meeting in February, to touch base and take questions from the attendees and canvass any volunteers that are willing to help on the estate.

The woodland management work is due to start in November 2011 until February 2012 in it’s first year of five. The BMC will be closely working with the Eastern Moors partnership during this time.

Horseshoe Conservation Day

Saturday 15th October saw the inaugural Horseshoe Crag Care Day. A motley band of volunteers descended on Stoney Middleton quarry, armed with a pretty comprehensive list of tasks.
To give a bit of background, the BMC acquired Horseshoe Quarry, for use as a recreation and conservation site, in 2004. The BMC's ownership of the crag sought to ensure long-term access to this important bolted limestone venue in the Peak.

Ownership and management of this SSSI means that everything done on site has to be consented by Natural England. Key features of the BMC’s management plan are to retain and enhance the character of a site which offers every habitat, from bare areas to climax vegetation. This involves shrub clearance, woodland management and improving wetland areas.
Peak Area Access Co-ordinator Henry Folkard invited a team of Access volunteers from Sheffield University to help with the work. Together with Access Representative Simon Jacques, he co-ordinated a large team spread throughout the quarry.
As BMC members also came on the day to volunteer their services, work began on the little-known upper land to the right of the quarry, raking a large area of cut grass, digging up tuft grass, trimming sloe bushes and dismantling the ‘Ray Mears’ shelter that had been built in the summer, and tidying up the hacked trees that were sacrificed for this.

Other teams cut back trees around the pond and removed pondweed, whilst important bramble removal work on top of the zigzags took place, helping encourage the wild orchid population. Sapling and bramble removal took place round the base of the crag and climbs, and litter and broken glass was removed, all six bags of it. Lots of flammable stuff was burnt and the day was finished off with a huge picnic for the volunteers, consisting all you could want in an outdoor feed.
The BMC would again like to thank Lucy Graham and the Sheffield University Access Team for some sterling work.

Want to volunteer?
The BMC is always on the look out for volunteers to help at Horseshoe with the ongoing conservation of the site. If you are interested please get in touch with the office.

Thursday, 24 November 2011

 
 
 
Reaching frontiers on a crag nothing like any other... a new route is pioneered by a member of the BMC guide team on Ashop Edge - Kinder North Edges.
 
The lonely world of Kinder Scout is a wild and wonderous place. You feel at your most vunerable tackling these test peices which loom over the clough. 
 
The Northern edges of Kinder spark magic in your soul and the challenges are there to be taken. Its a world away from the cresche of Froggatt & Stanage - wild art taking you to a fulfillment that lingers.
 
The BMC guide team have hit the crag with gusto - and after many lessons - returned with new climbs and a respect for these barrren edges that slowly kick your derriere...
 
Life in Kinder is an experience in itself - seek it out & live it - its life affirming and shows you yourself for who you are - enjoy the silence...
 
Look out for the new BMC Guide book "Over the Moors" in 2012...
Get off the beaten track... & feel the freedom...

Si