Wednesday 21 December 2011

Every Picture tells a story number 6: Happy Christmas!



6am, and I languidly rise from my lightly, dream dusted slumber...

Kicking the bedpost, an act of habit never learned from, despite the pain of yet another stubbed toe, I raggedly dress in the dark so as not to wake the rest of the household.

I have never been able to sleep in on Christmas morning, as a young lad so exited to see what Santa has brought or a flaky student staying up at some digs until being kicked out in the early hours.


These days it’s more of a hope that the snow has come and with it a fantastic sunrise may occur…

Christmas 2010 and the westerly winds had blown in fat, white flakes of snow covering the peak district eastern edges, blanketing the crest of harsh grey/black gritstone edges and the knarred trees that grow out from the frozen earth.

The smell of winter filled my senses in the dull light as I made my way, with skin shuddering in the razored wind to the aptly named Windy Corner at Stoke near Grindleford.

Altogether it made a perfect setting for the white cold moon hovering in the dark sky, which made way for the yolky sunlight to appear and illuminate the land over Curbar Edge.


The magnificent grit edges of Froggatt and Baslow peeked out from the top of the cold mist, which rose from the streams and rivers like some large primordial phantom of romance. The church bells in Calver began to peel and the twinkling lights of the local villages appeared in the valley as people were waking up to their Christmas presence.

A fellow early riser appeared from Jacobs ladder from Stoney Middleton, on a lone walk towards Eyam and we nodded and gave our Christmas morning greeting.

The sun was being lazy, disinterested and troublesome, however I managed a capture of the buttercup-hued skyline with the breathtakingly Christmassy scene scape.

The biting wind on my face and licking cracked lips, with the picture in the can, meant I decided to start back down the icy road to Mum’s house then Dad’s for the rest of the Christmas day, safe in knowledge that I had spent time being that early rising as a giddy, excited kid again…


…Happy Christmas all! Si x

Monday 12 December 2011

Every Picture Tells a Story - 5 – Locomotion...

Advent(urous) Train spotting…

December 1st and I was presented with a gift from a work colleague. She had rather gracefully bought advent calendars for the whole office; you know the ones with the god awful, sickly cheap chocolate in them.

Not that I’m an ingrate or anything, I just dislike chocolate of any kind and I’m not Eight years old anymore. The cover of said calendar being Thomas the Tank Engine.

Adopting the office “Advent Calendar policy” this now sits on my desk, with the annoyingly cheery tanker, smugly gawking at me with his fat silvery, boat race.

Peering at this visage, my mind wandered to question if he used to have eyebrows…as I spoke to Sue in the Gamma Knife Stereotactic Radiotherapy Department about government NHS financial budgets. She may have known, but I neglected to enquire.

It does, however remind me of a time when I was a train spotter (shush)... and I was taken all round the country by my dad just to write numbers in a book. Nay, not just a casual note in a jotter, it required this young lads courage to ask the driver to “cab” a loco.

Standing in the cab of a train we often asked “what that stick did” or “have you ever drove a steam engine” or so such intelligent curios.

The infamous number 50007 (pictured) was named Sir Edward Elgar – him of Land of Hope and Glory Fame, and if you sought out that particular locomotive, you had struck gold (or green as was the engines livery).

However one great memories of the time was the late, great Willie Rushton, him of fame for That was the week that was, reading the Thomas the Tank Engine stories. I remember Johnny Morris from Animal magic doing the same job. Legends both.

They spoke in such a way that as a young child, you would listen transfixed, chewing on every word and savouring the taste long after the record finished. The scratchy quality of the 33-rpm discs just added to the experience and the real life exploration of the railways became a joyous blurred journey of fiction, reality and fantasy.

It’s questionable that any of us grow up, especially boys/men. Steam trains still hold a special place in my heart, so it’s maybe a trifle harsh that I overly grumble about a small blue tank engine evading my space for 25 days…

…In fact, I think after all the chocolate has been scoffed by the office girls, moreover… I shall indeed miss Thomas the Tanker…

Sunday 11 December 2011

Every Picture Tells a Story - 4 – Carhead Rocks…


Carhead Rocks…

Where? you may ask. Not far from the most famous gritstone crag in the world… not far at all really - a spitting distance o-ert the road and you are at the crag that the Peak forgot (or tried to)

These are only really included as some of the only pictures that I have every taken with a broken scaifoid (left wrist thankfully).

We had sought out the rocks using the Allen Williams 1994 Green Peak Bouldering Guide (Ominous it being green) and after years of wondering what the rocks were like. I managed just the one problem before taking a rather po-faced tumble on the green shitty mank of the tundra heather and slime fested rocks.

“Pop” went the bone in my wrist.

“Ouch” I said before spouting a monologue of unrefined rough-cut expletives, for some time I have to admit… (Although I managed to take some canny pictures and carry the beers from the bar – what a hero!)

Still I had the fracture clinic to look forward to and following that the plaster room. I got a rookie and so with a heavy heart, I ditched the blue and white striped number of that there Sheffield Wednesday in favour of a plain green cast. She couldn’t nouse that up surely?

3 attempts later and I had a wonky misshaped green-esque cast in honour of Allen’s guide and the slime that had caused my affliction.

Carhead was born never to be loved, skulking, lurking and squatting in the shadow of the queen of Grit and like a jealous sibling, decided to exact revenge for years of abstinence.





Stanage has always looked after me; we took a w
hile to get to know each other admittedly, but then they all know Froggatt is my lady of choice, in more ways than one.

Does Carhead deserve a second chance? I walked within safe distance the other week, nervously eyeing the squat gritty edgy lumps. They looked as though they wished a casual roaming stroller approach without prejudice…

…I might have been suckered in lest I had seen this dubious looking profile, a mocking rock 'face' cut out laughing at my plight…one climb? “that’s all punter?”

My retort?

…aye but that problem were pretty bloody shit any how…

Sunday 4 December 2011

Every Picture Tells A Story 3 – Theo and I go To Cleethorpes…

Sometimes there is no need for an in-depth description or detailed hyperbole when it comes to capturing a moment in time.

Why spend time waxing lyrical, extracting every nuance and extrapolating the very thing you are trying to showcase via words when the bloody picture tells you what it is?

Why debate the minutiae of a photograph, when it clearly states “dog on a beach”

Theo and I went to Cleethorpes one day & we had a nice time, we recommend it. Theo looks happy and the sands are lush. His ears went a bit funny in this picture, but then he was on holiday...

Every Picture Tells a Story 2 - The Elusive Waterfall…

Many years ago as a young boy, I’d heard of a hidden waterfall, which was one of the highest in the Peak District. My Father knew of its whereabouts, yet cryptically stated, “it’s round abouts”.

A typical Derbyshire way of saying “I’m not telling you".Which to an adventurous young lad was torture and I vowed I would go to the ends of the earth (well within cycling distance at least) to discover their whereabouts.

After many years of mooching around the hills and dales, I was resigned never to find the fabled, secreted falls and pretty much gave up the ghost.

Sure we found plenty of other hidden waterfalls such as Brookside falls at Froggatt, Paddley Gorge falls, and the charming off shoots from Mag Clough.

Then many years later, the day came when a few like-minded photographers met in a kitchen thumbing through a black and white local photobook. Suddenly - there they were! I can’t tell you their name of course, as they are secret, but sure enough in glorious monochrome, the elusive falls had been discovered.

The location was baffling, as I had passed the area many times, yet one would never think to find a waterfall in the trees that hid their secret so well.


The light was a challenge and we all agreed that the day had been a success in parts, yet we could not shoot the waterfall in its entirety due to the contrasting nature of extreme light/shadow (see left). Still, a few frames were usable and I decided I would get my own back on my father.

As he tore the Christmas wrapping paper from the black and white frame to reveal the picture you see before you (above), fathers’ eyes bulged and with a wry smile I simply said, “told you I’d find them”…

Saturday 3 December 2011

Every picture tells a story…


Number 1 – Livvy White – Owler Tor




Every picture tells a story……so went the album title of Rod Stewart's 1973 album of the same name album title. Which had a load of great songs on it rather than pictures, but as one of these included Maggie May (the song not the picture – if there is one), I’ll let Rodders off…

A beautiful spot for walking, climbing and bouldering, Owler Tor, holds a special place in our hearts for some great times. The shot was taken on a raw January day, a year following a special bouldering trip on Christmas day when two bachelors were missing a family and decided to climb on the hill above Hathersage while the church bells peeled…

Her father, Phil and I bouldered out some of the best problems in the Peak before a shock phone call to say that some friends had been robbed all their presents on Xmas Eve. 

Pure joy turned to sadness and a pensive way forward… Olivia has a per ma smile on her boat race these days – how poignant and beautiful she could be when younger on the hills…the sadness and joy of the day encompassed in her eyes alone… Her hat was an inspiration and I have one despite the jolly japes - after all - they keep your head warm!

Enjoying the crisp, still and even grit, dad Phil's his boots on a lovely Owler arête.


Management of The Roaches Estate decided...


The all-important decision over the future of the Roaches has been made, with the announcement that Staffordshire Wildlife Trust will take on a 125 year lease of the estate.

The Roaches, an iconic climbing crag and beauty spot near Leek in Staffordshire, is one of the estates being "disposed of" as part of a wider asset review by the Peak District National Park Authority (PDNPA) due to budgetary pressures.

The Roaches Estate comprises a long thin strip of land with a variety of habitats from open moorland to plantation forest, incorporating a number of important crags such as Hen Cloud, The Roaches, The Five Clouds, The Roaches Skyline and Back Forest.

The Park Authority considered proposals from Staffordshire Wildlife Trust, The National Trust and The Land Trust before deciding to entrust Staffordshire Wildlife Trust with the estate's future management.

The BMC’s preferred option was The National Trust due to its experience in land management, dealing with moorland fires and management of visitors to popular areas such as the Roaches. However, the BMC is committed to working with the Staffordshire Wildlife Trust to ensure climbers and walkers interests are maintained and that the Roaches remains well managed for both wildlife and people.

The BMC leases Rockhall Cottage from the PDNPA and so has a direct interest in the future management of the estate separate to the climbing and walking.

It follows the National Trust and RSPB coming together to form the Eastern Moors Partnership to manage the Eastern Moors estate (including crags such as Froggatt and Curbar) last year, and precedes the next major estate of interest to walkers and climbers – North Lees, which includes Stanage.

This ‘asset disposal’ is a result of the PDNPA, along with many other National Parks and public bodies, having to make budget cuts. Historically the PDNPA has owned considerably more land than other National Park Authorities and as part of its cost saving review, a number of areas of its land were identified to be disposed of, through sale or lease to other organisations or individuals.

Following a yearlong process of consultation and putting the estate up for tender, the PDNPA’s Audit, Resources & Planning Committee met on the 25th November 2011 to decide which bid should be chosen to manage the site. Out of the three bids from the Land Trust, National Trust and Staffordshire Wildlife Trust (SWT), the SWT bid was chosen to take on management of the estate through a 125 year lease.

Local BMC access reps and keen local climbers Andi Turner, Henry Folkard, Adam Long and Neil Foster along with BMC Access & Conservation Officer Rob Dyer attended the public part of the meeting, with Andi and Henry each giving three minute speeches on the importance of the estate for climbers and walkers.
Please take time to follow this link for some of their thoughts on the decision and the process in this short video clip.




Reporting from the Peak District National Park Authority is here:


Thoughts as always welcome…

Simon Jacques 

BMC Access Representative


Sunday 27 November 2011

A Major Grouse at the Grouse...

Usually a pint in the Grouse Inn follows a stomp with Theo dog, and today was no exception - however we were greeted by the sad news that our four legged friend is no longer allowed, nay accepted in the bar. 

An outcast in his own local we left in disgust, as a long time local and supporter of the Grouse I find this most destroying - the foodies have complained about dogs in the pub.

Well I'm sorry but he was a paying customer that you have inadvertently discriminated against and lost a few few fellow customers in the process... a pub of traditional dog lovers - I hope little Bo dog in the annex doesn't get too upset by this decision as we are...




Saturday 26 November 2011

Four Legs good, Four Wheels bad...


I once got into very hot water, scalding in fact, on the issue of 4x4 use in the Peak District, when my name appeared in the national press, via a newspaper supporting a letter of harrumph towards a local authority.

The ramifications have never quite blown over, yet since, I have kept my red faced head down, when it come to all matters motorised vehicles on green lanes and byways, despite my seething utter disgust and loathing of the 4X4's belching over our National Parks.

Time and tide and all that, and this year I was invited by a fellow outdoor enthusiast and leading member of the Friends of the Peak District to attend a March against 4x4 use, up to Stanage Pole on the behalf of the British Mountaineering Council as an Access representative.

I seem to remember going quite pale at the request and I fobbed like one has never fobbed before, blustering and flustering a response of polite thanks, but no thanks. Attempts to encourage, included the fact that it would be filmed for both a BBC documentary and the Regional TV station Look North (or Look Leeds as we call it in Sheffield).

This only provided my alabaster, ashen face to turn a shade of pale that Procal Harum could never have envisaged, before my head fell off. Now the geezer that approached me is a good egg, a stout fellow and a kindred spirit when it comes to matters in the Peak District, yet I had to again say for reasons of politics, blahdy blah and my mangled, grossly deformed half chewed ear…no...
The world turned a few times and I was lobbied further, this time as an official photographer for the day, no badges or logo’s, organisations or politics, just a freelance snapper doing a gig for the love of it all.

The strings of my heart had been finely tuned and played like a good Fender Stratocaster, I had swallowed the sinker along with the hook and the line. However I needed tread carefully up the hill from Redmires Reservoirs up to Stanage as I shot frame after frame of rally supporters against the 4x4’s. A hand full of the latter of which decided to follow us up to the pole. If I could have worn a Groucho Marks disguise type mask, I surely would.

The Rally went well and pretty much without incident and I made it down from Stanage with the Peak district area Ranger discussing the problems that he faces with the 4x4’s using the long causeway at Stanage.

The local press did their thing and the BBC documentary was shown in October. A toothless affair caught up in red tape and committees with little or no substance I thought and the issue was parked as far as I was concerned.

Now I often get urges, like we all do and last weekend I had an urge to walk the Houndkirk byway through sheer curiosity. Not really for any reason but for to walk Theo dog and to see how the walkers, mountain bikers and the motorised folk are playing up there.

To be proactive is better than being reactive and I thought it prudent to get a view of the current state of play on Houndkirk before I entered into any hyperbole with interested parties moving forward for access issues.

Mountain bikes whizzed past as Theo and I tramped over the moor, past the area where the decoy city lights were deployed during the 2nd World War. The dog walkers were out in force and a few motorbikes chugged by as we journeyed towards Ringinglow with the sun dipping down over the crest of Burbage Valley.

Crap from motorised vehicles was strewn about the road, the gritstone walls decimated from stone taken for the road to help stuck vehicles and the fence flattened for the enjoyment of some utterly vile petrol (shit) heads.

I finished the walk into Sheffield down the pleasant Limb Valley, thankfully free from man made detritus pondering on the state of things.

I tend to pick my battles that I want to win, but sometimes, they choose me instead and I then have to assess how the land literally lies. The conclusion is neither earth shattering, or of major consequence on core values and opinion. I detest 4X4’s and I still think they have no place in a National Park. I think I will hold this opinion no matter what, however much I am allowed to voice it.

I will stop short of some of the expletives that some of my colleagues choose to label the 4x4 fraternity, however one memorable exchange between a climber and a petrol head went something like this:

“Isn’t what your doing illegal?”

“No”

“Well it f*****g well ought to be…”

 Quite...


Eastern Moors crag plan underway

The new BMC crag management plan for the Eastern Moors Estate is underway, with woodland management starting next month.

On 22nd September, BMC Peak Area Access Representatives Adam Long and Simon Jacques met with Danny Udall, Site Manager, Kim Strawbridge, Warden and Andrew Carson, Warden, for a site visit on the Curbar/Froggatt escarpment.

The meeting was to commence the implementation of the BMC’s Crag Management Plan for the area and detailed woodland surveillance in line with the Eastern Moors Partnership’s woodland management document.

The crag management plan was prepared by the BMC Eastern Moors sub Group. The plan had been submitted to the Eastern Moors Partnership and the Stakeholder forum and following its agreement, is now being successfully rolled out on the eastern moors and the gritstone edges.

Starting the day at Warren Lodge at Curbar the team went through the plans of the woodland management from Curbar to Froggatt and the details of the woodland grant that has been approved to carry out the work of preserving and managing the woodland beneath and above the crags.

The team visited the Trackside boulder at Curbar and agreed that although the carpet of wood chippings beneath the boulder were initially a good idea, a longer-term erosion plan needed to be implemented. This will involve the chippings being scraped out and gritstone hardcore being placed down as per the plantation at Stanage, with volunteers being asked to help.

During the site visit, the team walked over the edges and discussed areas on the crags where there would be a case for the thinning of the higher line of trees and the sympathetic management of silver birch removal, with a promotion of Oakland woodland regen.

The crags are to be opened up for better views from both the Derwent valley and from the edges themselves. Areas such as Rumble Wall at Curbar and Froggatt in the woods will be thinned at buttress sites and on the top of the edge.

The team also noted a marked change, following the removal of sheep grazing on the edges, of bell heather regeneration around the crags along with small oak and rowan saplings with gorse making a welcome come back and many signs of deer tracks throughout the walk.

Following an invite, Danny and his team are happy to attend the BMC Peak Area meeting in February, to touch base and take questions from the attendees and canvass any volunteers that are willing to help on the estate.

The woodland management work is due to start in November 2011 until February 2012 in it’s first year of five. The BMC will be closely working with the Eastern Moors partnership during this time.

Horseshoe Conservation Day

Saturday 15th October saw the inaugural Horseshoe Crag Care Day. A motley band of volunteers descended on Stoney Middleton quarry, armed with a pretty comprehensive list of tasks.
To give a bit of background, the BMC acquired Horseshoe Quarry, for use as a recreation and conservation site, in 2004. The BMC's ownership of the crag sought to ensure long-term access to this important bolted limestone venue in the Peak.

Ownership and management of this SSSI means that everything done on site has to be consented by Natural England. Key features of the BMC’s management plan are to retain and enhance the character of a site which offers every habitat, from bare areas to climax vegetation. This involves shrub clearance, woodland management and improving wetland areas.
Peak Area Access Co-ordinator Henry Folkard invited a team of Access volunteers from Sheffield University to help with the work. Together with Access Representative Simon Jacques, he co-ordinated a large team spread throughout the quarry.
As BMC members also came on the day to volunteer their services, work began on the little-known upper land to the right of the quarry, raking a large area of cut grass, digging up tuft grass, trimming sloe bushes and dismantling the ‘Ray Mears’ shelter that had been built in the summer, and tidying up the hacked trees that were sacrificed for this.

Other teams cut back trees around the pond and removed pondweed, whilst important bramble removal work on top of the zigzags took place, helping encourage the wild orchid population. Sapling and bramble removal took place round the base of the crag and climbs, and litter and broken glass was removed, all six bags of it. Lots of flammable stuff was burnt and the day was finished off with a huge picnic for the volunteers, consisting all you could want in an outdoor feed.
The BMC would again like to thank Lucy Graham and the Sheffield University Access Team for some sterling work.

Want to volunteer?
The BMC is always on the look out for volunteers to help at Horseshoe with the ongoing conservation of the site. If you are interested please get in touch with the office.

Thursday 24 November 2011

 
 
 
Reaching frontiers on a crag nothing like any other... a new route is pioneered by a member of the BMC guide team on Ashop Edge - Kinder North Edges.
 
The lonely world of Kinder Scout is a wild and wonderous place. You feel at your most vunerable tackling these test peices which loom over the clough. 
 
The Northern edges of Kinder spark magic in your soul and the challenges are there to be taken. Its a world away from the cresche of Froggatt & Stanage - wild art taking you to a fulfillment that lingers.
 
The BMC guide team have hit the crag with gusto - and after many lessons - returned with new climbs and a respect for these barrren edges that slowly kick your derriere...
 
Life in Kinder is an experience in itself - seek it out & live it - its life affirming and shows you yourself for who you are - enjoy the silence...
 
Look out for the new BMC Guide book "Over the Moors" in 2012...
Get off the beaten track... & feel the freedom...

Si

Friday 30 September 2011

Edale Mountain Rescue – 9 Edges Challenge 2011

The training had gone well until the last week prior to the challenge. Never have I had an achilles problems until now, apart from trying to learn the Bob Dylan classic “Temporary like Achilles”.

I hoped and prayed that this affliction was just that…

I have wrote before that exhaustion does funny things to ones spacial awareness, and indeed it does as we trampled over moor & heather on the 2011 Nine Edges Endurance Challenge.

Russ and I had made it to Baslow Edge, but with feet stinging like a jellyfish, and after Severn edges and Severn climbs; my brain had started to break up like a smashed crab.

The morning has begun crisp dry and very healthy as we set off at 07:30am from Fairholmes Car Park at Derwent Resevoir, up the big hill towards Dovestones Edge. This was the start of the 3rd challenge I had accepted for Edale Mountain Rescue - a 23-mile choice of hiking/biking and or climbing each edge from Derwent to Birchin Edge, finishing at the Robin Hood Pub.

I opted to hike & not climb – that was Russ’s job. However my job was to be Wingman Goose to his Pilot Maverick (Top Gun Fans). We made it up to Back Tor in good time and Russ soloed a nice Severe in his big boots, and that set the scene for our yomp down Stanage.

Stanage is a long edge, walk it sometime and marvel on how diverse it is – one thing though, it really does trash your feet!

We ate jellybabies religiously stomping over to Burbage and then to the Grouse Inn, where we avoided the tempting foaming pints in favour of bananas & more jelly babies!

Froggatt and Curbar. A hastily re-arranged route for Russ was the classic Doglegged Crack – (VD) and we struggled on towards Baslow where it all started to go wrong... again…

Russ had just climbed Wobble Block (D) and after some brief moments of respite, I realised my legs had stopped working and no longer wished to carry on…

That was the beginning of the end. My Dad had just finished the hike and was on his first pint – and so decided to ring me at that point to gloat about how good it tasted… Thanks for the support Dad… We were by now mentally shagged and managed to stumble on to Gardoms.

This was whereabouts Russ’s Brain decided to take charge and lead him in the direction of Birchin Edge – it was clearly not wanting to take in a climb at Gardoms! I eventually after much protestation, managed to direct him to the actual direction of the Crag and on to NMC Crack (VD). After knocking the bastard off – we trudged painfully up to Birchin where Russ just managed Trafalgar Crack / Wall (VD).

The Walk down from the crag to the Robin Hood Pub, was again physically the hardest thing I have ever had to do, and the sight of the end and the pub was so welcome!

Pint in hand and new Nine Edges T-Shirts, we started to dream of hot baths and take in what we had just achieved and the reasons for actually doing it.

That being the great work that Mountain Rescue do and I would bet that pretty much everyone who reads this will either have been rescued or know someone who has needed their service at some point. To get involved in the Nine Edges Endurance Challenge for Edale Mountain Rescue 2012 keep an eye out for registration in the New Year at: www.nineedges.co.uk Will we do it again next year in 2012? You bet! But get your registration in ASAP - It gets full quick!



Thursday 25 August 2011

An Alien On The White Coast - Costa Blanca Bouldering


Think of Costa Blanca and to most it will conjure images of crag after impressive limestone crag, safe bolted routes and a large quantity of unclimbed cliffs. However, taking into consideration that the Spanish have only developed the crags nearest to the road, it's always been presumed that they are hardly likely to walk miles just for some 'trivial' bouldering, as such, subsequently the region has never really been associated with bloc sport.

However this is now changing with more and more people out for a quick fix on a Family Holiday, or to entertain the most diehard of climbers on a rest day.

My first trip to the Costa Blanca saw me at the Orange House activity centre, fishing for any bouldering possibilities the area had to offer, which no one could quite believe given the classic crags of Sella and Toix a stones throw away and the huge Mountain of the Puig Campagnia towering over me.

Eventually, I was shown El beach Paradiso, a nudist beach at Villajoysa. The problems had big 'blobby' holds and some impressive over hanging caves which looked like they had potential. However after breaking off a hold the size of a shoebox, I ended up cracking my head on the only rock on the beach and ended up with 8 metal staples, however, my resolve, if not my head, remained intact to find some quality bouldering problems!

Fast forward five months later, another trip to the Orange House and this time seasoned ex pat Al Evans, sympathising with my love of bouldering and sniffing out anything new, told me of some fine bouldering that he had discovered in the area.

First was the beach at Denia (near Les Rotes) Platja Les Arenetes, which on first impressions does not look like much. However as soon as you are on the sands with the small, overhanging, perfectly formed crag, it becomes apparent that the venue could have been designed by Bendcrete. A perfect set of pockets and pinches on a sweep of browny rock...which was duly, allowed grit status. There's a lot more potential here too. The crag seems to peter out with bad landings but further on, lies a large secret cave to discover and enjoy. All in all it's a lovely place to boulder - with the waves lapping against the shore - it's perhaps the perfect place for a family to go or for a rest day.

To whet my appetite further, I had been promised bigger and better things to come and so we made our way to Montessa. The crag stands proudly next to the ruins of the castle above its namesake town, and although the bouldering there has in the past been largely ignored in the guides, we were fortunate to find there is a guide available in the town from Camil's Rock bar. The guide “La Mola de Montessa” contains both climbing and the 40 strong bouldering problems and a percentage of sales goes towards the bolt fund out there.

After a warm up route, I went in search of a boulder or two and was not disappointed when I rounded a corner from the buttress of El Tormo Gros, to see a pristine hulk of prime limestone begging to be climbed! There followed a session that seemed strange to the sport routers. Clearly some had never seen a bouldering mat before and questioned my motivation – and for a few, brief moments, before topping out on a few great problems, perhaps I did too...

Yet there was still more to be found. As I left, I got a tip-off about some boulders in the woods below Olta. That settled it and five months later and I was there again going through customs to Alicante, sans rack but with bouldering mat firmly attached and getting questioned why I had a fold out bed with me on the way to Spain.

Olta has a great Font feel about it, with the boulders spread out in amongst the forest and (oddly) has a slight touch of Wimberry too, as the further up the hillside you head, the more the perfect formed blocs unveil themselves as you slog up to the crag.

The opening of the Blocs has been mostly of the exploratory type, and there's still lots to go at for the bouldering faithful, some highball nastiness, overhanging crimping and heady slab fests on perfect Blanca fluted - pocketed - sharp limestone.

There are other areas that have been documented on the White Coast including a secret roof that has been developed by the Edward's and is said to be nails. There are various other boulders developed by locals, Al Evans and others, which until the projects are completed, remain secret between those in the know. The obvious car park boulder at Sella however, is one you will all see out there and now contains a few fun lines for the boulderer.

If you fancy something different to the usual clip ups on the white coast, I guarantee that the venues mentioned here will not disappoint. Best interspersed with the routes, the circuits are fun and I haven't even mentioned the sublime deep water bouldering at Cala Moirag down the coast from Toix at Cumbre de la Sol, above the beautiful aqua marine Mediterranean that simply takes your breath away....

Friday 19 August 2011

Filey Fables


I remember at a very young age, looking through our family photo albums and coming across some photo’s sans myself, of my parents and sisters on a beach somewhere.

I asked my mother “why aren’t I in the pictures?”

My mother replied that more than likely I was in her tummy as I had not yet been born and the pictures were of the family on Filey Beach before I came into this world. As you know, kids are inquisitive creatures and I went on to ask all sorts of questions about the little seaside town, and when I found out how utterly boring the place sounded, I did the grumpy child thing and stated to state to anyone listening in the vicinity that by no means would I want to go there for my summer holidays as it sounded rubbish…

Years after years of holidaying at the small resort by generations of my family, I was determined that this particular generation was better than my Grandparents and their children. Nothing short of the Isle of White would do for this repugnant Jacques child.

My Grandparents used to take the Family to Filey as it was famed for its grand sweeping beach and it was of course, a short (ish) journey from Derbyshire. They used to stay in an old fisherman’s cottage on Queens street, renting rooms in the house for my parents and after a day on the beach my grandmother would retire to the house to cook tea for the landlord, such was the days of a woman’s place in the kitchen.

Since my childish tantrum and minor outburst, I never thought of the east coast resort again, until years later, I was asked by some friends if I would like to go to Filey for the weekend.

I think my response was pretty much the same as the spoilt brats, however it wasn’t received with such grace nor indifference as previously. In fact my friends took this blasé retort as an insult and chided me for my arrogance and indeed, ignorance.

I apologised almost immediately, I was no longer 5 and as a mature adult I should show my friends more respect and gratitude and so I accepted their kind offer of a trip to the seaside for a weekend of fish and chips and ice creams.

Since that trip, I have been back to Filey around 3 times a year, usually with the same group of great mates, stopping at my friend’s bungalow, which is rented out as a holiday cottage most weekends of the year.

This year most of us had no plans to journey abroad for summer holidays and so a short stay at the Filey bungy was it for us!

The weekend started off well with a fun ride up the A64 in a converted modern VW camper van, playing a few tunes in the spacious living area while we drove to the coast. A first bike ride to get the muscles warmed up for the weekend activities and we retired tired but happy with a few drinks and the obligatory cheese board.

The gulls woke me next morning as usual and it was a close decision whether training starts at 6am in the sunshine or I give myself chance to gain another hour sleep before heading out. Fortunately the latter won over, and slightly more refreshed, I set off on the push iron to the coast and the morning’s ride began in bright sunshine with the gulls squawking above.

3 more runs that day, some dry some not, and the legs had begun to burn, however rest came with a well deserved barbeque and crash that night, whilst trying to keep the hams supple and the quads stretched.

Next morning WAS early on the bike and as the rain fell, I put the foul weather to the back of my mind for as long as I could before returning to the bungy for a well deserved breakfast to fuel up for the day.

A familiar start to the days events via a short walk through the fields to the coast onto the Brigg, before the beach for a 2 hour game of cricket. The exercise had begun to tell as I was always half an inch off the catch as the kids ran us ragged, before we were allowed to retire to the pub, which in some ways was our local, well, our Filey local anyway.

Having played a gig there last time we were in town, I was kind of hoping that I may be welcome back on the bill, however it was cheesy cabaret summertime season and the ‘family entertainers’ were on the circuit. Ah well, next time.

Before we hit the Station Hotel, we marvelled at a display from the Coastguard and watched in awe as a sea king heli soared over two lifeboats performing a stunning display of sea rescue in the bay. My favourite part being when the heli took a bow at the end of the performance before sweeping away over the bay and the onlookers crowded onto the beach.

Another evening run on the racer and my legs were now going away from me and I only just managed a walk to fetch the fish and chips.

I decided that I had maybe shot my bolt, this before the day I’d already ear marked as a long day out on the bike. My plan was to catch the Scarborough train and alight for the coastal trail to Whitby via Robin Hoods Bay. No chance. Especially as young Nathan didn’t fancy another beach day and wanted an adventure out on the bikes.

That gave me the excuse to shelve the Whitby idea, and so we set off in the drizzle to the local wildlife sanctuary, where we sheltered in the hides to view the wetlands and the vast array of bird life. Bill Oddie would have wet himself. We were just happy to be dry as we necked our retro midget gems and bon bon’s.

Moving on, next stop on the bikes was the very large local pet centre we have driven past many times yet never before entering. Nathan liked the fish and I liked the rabbits, it was free and we were dry. I decided that we’d had enough excitement for one day and we rode through the rain down to ‘Muston Bottoms’ for lunch at ‘The Ship’. But it was shut, so we cycled up the hill to Hunmanby, which, as nice a village as it is, the pond life and the pubs did not inspire a lunch stop. However I knew of a place by the railway a little further on which did a carvery and was a tad better class of a place and very nice were they too at the Railway Tavern, welcoming two wet and muddy cyclists for their lunch.

I knew the next stretch of our journey would be the fun part as what goes up, has to rush down and as a reward of our hard work, we sped past the windmills down the hills to the coast weaving and laughing through the fresh coastal air as the clouds dissipated leaving bright sunshine.

A fast run down the coastal road saw us entering Filey via the south route past the donkeys to the boating lake for a rest at another favourite, the White Lodge Hotel gardens, with a fantastic view of Filey bay.

A race back to the Bungy (where I was soundly beaten – my legs HAD gone) and we put the bikes away for the day and I hoped for the rest of the holiday! We returned later on to the White Lodge Hotel for a lovely meal in the conservatory, again admiring the views before retiring for cheese and port at the bungy. It is after all along with fish and chips, a Filey tradition round our parts.

The next day I couldn’t even look at the bike, never mind get my poor arse on it, so I decided that to warm down, a walk in the summer sunshine over the fields to the coast would be the better.

Much to my surprise Nathan still had some beans left and wanted to come with me yet again. Good lad. So we stocked on grub and water and pressed on over to the Wolds Way, where I gave the map to Nathan and told him that he would be chief navigator for the day.

Journeying through the green fields of cattle, these soon turned to wheat (the fields, not the cows!) and we arrived at the charming village of Gristhorpe (better that it sounds) where we looked for a spot for lunch. Being such a tiny place there was only the pub (again – oh dear) where we could stop and rest, yet it was on of the nicest and charming that I have visited in the area (it’s not really hard as the competition is pretty much nil). The Bull was an old smugglers tavern from the 1600’s and we barely fitted in as the ceiling was slung so low over the bowed oak beams. In amongst the 1950’s memorabilia were nautical references hung hither and thither, but as the sun was shining we sat in the beer garden with an albino rabbit and a few chickens to eat our pasties with a side dish of pork scratchings.

Onwards walking to Lebberston, another small village, we passed a travelling circus before arriving at one of those family places that sells plastic food and has a wicky woo warehouse. We needed a toilet by then and nature had not provided us with a spot, we used the facilities before a mixed slush puppy and a game of air hockey and table football.

Lord knows how folk can spend more than the 10 minutes we did in there, far be it for me to judge people and their choice of leisure time, but I’m just glad that there ARE places like that to put these people in.

As the day got hotter, we finally made it over to the coast near the surfing school at Cayton Bay and onto the Cleveland Way where we sat for a while contemplating the view of nearby Scarborough with its prominent castle. As we resumed our walk (after retrieving a local ladies spectacles from the path) Nathan decided at this point to be knackered. I sympathised with him, he had put in a fine effort, yet we were still a fair few miles from the bungy. It was going to be a hard walk in for both of us.

The coast to our left looked stunning as we walked down the way, albeit at a snails pace and I tried to ignore the amount of litter that we came about as we walked past the caravan parks. It was horrific and it made me so disgusted that people can actually care so little for the environment that they inhabit. Yet I was on holiday and I wasn’t there to be an eco warrior and had to turn a blind eye, bloody frustrating.

Judgement clouded through tiredness and we took a wrong turn (even though I knew it was – I wasn’t the navigator remember!) and we ended up doing the old barb wire fence hurdle to see us safely back to the bungy, shattered and in need of a good rest.

We’d done more miles than I anticipated yet we had taken in a good deal of interesting sites over the last few days, well for Filey at least!

As I sat on the train home that evening and we sped past the coastal towns and villages in the glowing yellow light over the North Sea, I thought of myself as that naive grotty five year old that had so readily dismissed a holiday to the resort of Filey.

Call it fate, karma or irony, but my summer holiday for 2011 in Filey had taken the story full circle, as often happens when one learns to appreciate what opportunities they have. I feel my Filey bashing has been restored over time and I have made my peace with the town…

Thanks Filey, see you soon…